Expert Aboard: Aqua Lares

What Sets This Ship Apart – Small but Mighty 

You might have heard the term micro-cruising, which in the Arctic generally means ships carrying fewer than 50 guests. Until now, going this small usually meant choosing a charming but no-frills expedition vessel. If you wanted true luxury, you had to move up to ships carrying 100 guests or more. Aqua Lares changes that as the first vessel in the region that gives you both.

Originally designed to be a Class 1 ice breaker, the ship spent its early days as a Russian tug with its main purpose to break ice to allow nuclear submarines through the ice field. Later the vessel was sold to former Google chairman, Eric Schmidt, and was refit into a superyacht icebreaker (the first of its kind). Search for “the Legend superyacht” online to see more of the ship’s fascinating history.  

Overall Standout – Small Ship Efficiency & Super Yacht living 

Excursions could be made on the fly for quick disembarkation, surprise landings and kayaking. With one tender that could fit us all, plus three Zodiacs and three expedition guides, our days aboard felt nimble and flexible to take advantage of whatever came our way.  Larger ships simply require more time and effort (many rotating guest groups), guides and planning for disembarkations. 

Everything aboard (gear, Zodiacs, finishings) feels top of the line. Luxury touches extend from the decor to the experience itself. Aqua’s co-owner Birgit Zugaro puts a special personal spin on things, which included branded dishware that matched the comfy octopus-embroidered velvet slippers in my suite.

After doing a polar plunge, I could choose from an indoor or outdoor Jacuzzi. And the onboard spa includes massage services, a sauna and rain shower. 

Velvet reclining chairs in the onboard cinema were plush, but likely a space that only families, teens gaming or movie buffs would use on such busy explorations. During my trip they played a Mission Impossible film that was filmed in Svalbard, so popping in for a few minutes of that was a fun touch.

But the true highlight was being in the salon for the daily pre-dinner expedition leader presentations. Our guides would go over our routes and plans for the next day off ship, and share their knowledge from spending years in the area. All had their specialties: from the history of polar exploration and the whaling trade, to wildlife, birding and current research efforts taking place on Svalbard. 

Favorite Spaces – Open Bridge/Bow Deck & Dining Salon 

The bridge and its open-door policy were hot spots for my cruise. The bridge was quite large so several of us could fit comfortably and hang out. The navigation team, Captain and expedition leaders were always around chatting with us making it a welcoming space.  

It was great to be in a warm place where all the action was: approaching ice fields, stunning cliffs and spotting wildlife first. And with 24 hours of sunlight, I felt lost in time, like I could be up there forever.  

From the bridge it was also easy to access the bow. On the nicer days the crew would bring out deck furniture for us to relax and take it all in.  

The salon offered one long table for guests to sit, chat and get to know each other in an intimate environment. Because of our small numbers all the guests became very comfortable with each other quickly. There were some smaller tables available in the salon for those that wanted to have a more private experience but for the most part everyone landed at the communal table. As a single traveler I appreciated this set up as making friends quickly was no problem. 

Cabin Comparisons 

I was in Cabin 203, a Category III Suite conveniently on the same deck as the upper salon where we had our expedition briefings. Calling these cabin spacious is an understatement. It had a desk and large closet that easily fit clothing and luggage for two people. The bathroom had a two-sink vanity and large shower with heated flooring and towel rack. There were plenty of areas for storage. The portholes in the cabin were large, more like large oval windows, and allow plenty of light. All cabins within this category are roughly similar in size and appearance. And as I mentioned earlier, came with a plush pair of embroidered slippers that were ours to keep (a first for me).

The Aqua Lares has not one but three owner suites. Two have Murphy beds to accommodate families, while the top-deck suite is the largest, with his-and-hers walk-in closets. All have spacious sitting areas and espresso machines.

I’ve been in the expedition cruise industry for 25 years, and the marble bathrooms aboard Aqua Lares are the fanciest I’ve ever seen. Each has a large shower, separate bathtub and plenty of space.

The Category IV and V Suites are slightly smaller with more unique bedding configurations including fixed twins, one with a fixed bunk bed and twins for triple occupancy, so be sure to read the fine print when you’re choosing a cabin to get the configuration and space you need.   

Best Moments 

One of the great moments of the trip was entering the pack ice on our third day. We arrived at 81.8 degrees North and felt on top of the world. Once we settled into the area, the Zodiacs and kayaks lowered and 12 of us were on our way paddling through the field of ice, while others went on the Zodiacs for a slow cruise. It didn’t matter what activity you chose as both were serene. Later our group of 26 all landed on an ice field and were able to walk around, have tea and discover some polar bear tracks. Just magical! 

Another stand out was a surprise visit to Smeerenburg, an old whaling outpost, where we encountered a large walrus haulout. This was special because we were able to walk up close (100 meters) to the walruses and quietly view them. Since we were near the shoreline, we had one walrus swim up right next to us curious as to what we were doing. We stayed there for about 30 minutes before deciding to leave them in peace.  

On Day 5 we woke up to a massive wall of ice at Bråsvellbreen glacier. The longest northern hemisphere glacier at 180 Km (112 mi) and Europe’s 3rd largest ice cap. Beautiful waterfalls coming off the glacier on a sunny, windless day was surreal. Outdoor furniture was placed out on the bow deck to relax most of the morning to enjoy the view with coffee and breakfast. Simply stunning. 

Understanding the Itinerary

Aqua Lares lists sample itineraries, but you aren’t choosing between a set Route A or Route B. In Svalbard, the guides and captain determine the route based on weather, sea and ice conditions, permitted landing sites and even opportunities that open up when other ships change their plans.

Our trip, for example, traveled clockwise around Svalbard rather than counterclockwise because of the weather. Along the way, we made a few unplanned stops, including places even some of the crew had not visited before.

That flexibility became one of my favorite parts of the trip and we still had at least two off-ship excursions every day. The wildlife, landscapes and spontaneity made the journey feel entirely complete. As we were reminded every day, “we are on an expedition.”