Sailing Indonesia: The Spice Islands

Today visit the Guarici Archipelago, a chain of islands with white sandy beaches, vibrant coral reefs and lovely local villages. Spend a full day here snorkeling, swimming and visiting with locals at one of the villages. The islands are part of a government-controlled conservation area, designed to protect the reefs and the many beautiful marine species that live there.

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan, another of Indonesia’s historic spice sultanates. Go ashore to explore the forested slopes where Wallace made some of his greatest zoological discoveries, including the moluccan cuscus, the standardwing bird of paradise, the world’s largest bee megachile pluto, and the huge and magnificent golden birdwing butterfly. When Wallace caught the first golden birdwing butterfly male in 1859 he wrote: “When I took it out of my net, and opened its gorgeous wings, I was nearer fainting with delight and excitement than I have ever been in my life; my heart beat violently, and the blood rushed to my head, leaving a headache for the rest of the day.” Very few Westerners have ever seen this species alive and no groups of tourists have ever been taken to see it before. Of course spotting it is not guaranteed but your guide is the one person on Bacan who knows exactly where the butterfly can be found.

Keep a close watch for these and a host of other animals, some of them endemic to these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black macaque—the only monkey in Maluku. It’s the wrong side of the Wallace Line for monkeys; these ones were introduced hundreds of years ago from North Sulawesi.

Snorkeling amidst the anomaly of warm water, a result of a nearby hot spring spilling into the sea, is a truly remarkable experience. The surface shimmers with a distinct warmth, creating a unique contrast against the cooler depths below.

In the morning make landfall at the Pisang Islands. These tiny gems isolated in the vast waters of the Ceram Sea offer a chance to relax and enjoy the sparkling white-sand beaches, clear waters and vibrant reefs before the ship makes her way to the shores of West Misool.

Today hope to see the lesser birds of paradise displaying in the wild, an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to see them. Rise around 4:00am and have a quick breakfast before going ashore at Kapatcol, where local guides will be waiting to take everyone through the forest to hopefully see the birds as they dance around in their ‘lekking’ (courtship display) trees. In the afternoon, have the chance to spend some time on an uninhabited island for snorkeling and beach time.

In the morning, snorkel at a channel that divided two islands, where sea fans are hanging in the drop-offs and the current is rich in nutrients. The afternoon will be a laid back time spent strolling the white-sandy beach and snorkeling the reef where juvenile black tip reef sharks usually frequent. You will also have the chance to play beach volleyball if you are interested.

This morning wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. The topography is typical of karst dissolution featuring a great number of tiny islets whose bases have been eroded over time by the relentless motion of the tides. After an early breakfast, take tenders into the heart of the bay to see this partially submerged cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with astonishing stalactites. The more adventurous can swim or paddle through the dark waters to the other mouth of the cave. 

Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. After returning to the ship, use the tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be 3,000-5,000 years old that depict various human figures and huge human palms, fish, plants, tools and vessels.

After days of marine exploration, the jungle-clad island of Batanta offers a change of scenery. After getting back to the boat and having lunch, go snorkeling and get the paddleboards and kayaks in the water, before heading north later in the afternoon on an overnight cruise to a beautiful group of islands.

For those who wish, if the tide permits, take a short walk along the riverbed to the first of two jungle waterfalls complete with a refreshing pool for cooling off. The fit and adventurous may choose to continue the uphill climb along the rocks to where a second, larger cascade awaits. After this, the boat will move to Dayang Island for another great snorkeling opportunity.

Wake up in front of the island of Penemu, a dramatic location with a short hilltop climb to take in the amazing views. After some great snorkeling on the island’s reefs, set course for the tiny Arborek Island, where the local children will perform their traditional dances. Also take time to walk around the village and gain a sense of the Asai culture, which is still kept very much alive by the villagers living in this isolated place. There’s a chance to see possible manta rays while snorkeling, but no guarantees. 

Today presents another opportunity for keen naturalists to rise early and walk into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the remarkable red bird of paradise, one of the species that Wallace was most anxious to collect. With a little luck and the help of knowledgeable guides, see this rare bird’s elaborate courtship display as dawn breaks over the forest canopy. After returning to the ship, turn attention to the sea as the ship makes her way through the Dampier strait, home of some of Raja Ampat’s premier reefs. If the currents are in favorable, see some of the area’s larger specimens of marine life, which are attracted to the strait’s nutrient-rich waters. 

Spend the afternoon in Yenbeser village where Wallace spent some months. If the tides permit, visit a faithful replica of Wallace’s small hut, which was built by the villagers. Also visit a nearby small island where a local man has set up a coconut crab sanctuary. The island is home to a small number of these monsters (Birgus latro, the world’s largest terrestrial arthropod), and opportunities exist to get up close and personal with these magnificent yet docile beasts. Another late afternoon snorkel along a reef with some spectacular giant clams (the world’s largest bivalve) will lead into dinner at anchor on board, ready for an early morning venture for the red bird of paradise. 

Today, rise at 4:30am, off Saporkren village. Take a dinghy to the village while it’s still dark and follow a local guide on a short drive into the forest on a pre-dawn quest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Hope that the efforts of today’s early start will pay off with a rare and privileged sight of the bird’s elaborate courtship dance as the day breaks over the forest canopy. 

Back in the village there’s time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Get back on the boat by mid-morning and head to Yenbuba at Mansuar island for some snorkeling before lunch. This place is known as the “fish bowl” because it provides the chance to see different types of fish around the bay. The boat will then move to Mioskon island for more snorkeling and the opportunity to watch a multitude of bats flying overhead just after sunset. Tonight, enjoy a farewell party. 

Today is the end of the adventure, but there is still one last chance for a swim and a snorkel at a small offshore island before cruising into port. Alternatively, explore Doom Island. Once at anchor, say goodbye to the crew and ship before taking the tenders ashore and being transferred to the airport for your onward travel. 

Today rise very early and head off in the tenders to a small village. Follow local guides on a walk into the forest to spot the gorgeous Wilson’s Bird of Paradise. Back in the village take time to meet with the community and perhaps visit the school. Get back on the boat by mid-morning and if time permits, travel over to a nearby island to snorkel. In the afternoon, go snorkeling on the beautiful reefs that fill this area. 

After breakfast, snorkel at the famous Fish Bowl at Yenuba village, one of the most diverse and rich sites in all of Raja Ampat with many hundreds of species and fish of all sizes.

During lunch, cruise to nearby Arborek village, where you will be entertained by the local school children with traditional dance and music. Also snorkel on the local reef where you’ll hope to see manta rays.

This evening, enjoy a presentation on manta rays by the BareFoot Community, an NGO working closely with these giants of the deep.

Today, wake up in Piaynemo in the Fam islands, where you will go for a snorkel after breakfast and then make a climb to the viewpoint to look down over this magnificent island chain. Next visit nearby Andau island, where you have another chance to hopefully spot another group of manta rays. Later this afternoon, head south in the direction of Misool.

This morning wake to see the sun rise over the picturesque chain of islands that makes up the eastern part of the Misool archipelago. Take tenders to a large cave where it is possible to swim, snorkel or simply float while gazing up at the cavernous grotto adorned with stalactites. Then move on to a mysterious jellyfish lake and swim among the many thousands of stingless animals: undoubtedly one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable activities. 

In the afternoon, use the tenders to explore more of this impressive maze of karst islands, both above and below the surface, complete with mysterious skull cairns in sea-cave cemeteries and prehistoric cave paintings estimated to be 3,000-5,000 years old. 

After breakfast, don your snorkeling gear for a swim through the Gorgonian Passage, an area rich in large corals and abundant fish life. Explore the local island chain by tender and have some beach time in the afternoon where you can kayak, paddleboard, snorkel and swim. Tonight enjoy a beach BBQ under the stars.

Wake early once again and go ashore. Follow local local guides through the forest to hopefully see the lesser bird of paradise as they dance around in their “lekking” trees. On the way back, stroll around the village, possibly including a school visit, to learn about the way Nature Conservancy is working with the village to empower local women with a fishing practice called “sasi.” 

Today the ship is positioned off the extreme southern tip of Halmahera Island for snorkeling and a visit to a local Bajau sea gypsy village to learn about their way of life. During lunch, we will head west again in the direction of Bacan island.

Wake up off the western coast of Bacan and go ashore to explore the forested slopes in search of Wallace’s giant bee and the huge and magnificent golden birdwing butterfly. During this trip hope to see some of other endemic animals of these islands, including parrots, cockatoos, lorikeets, hornbills, the elusive cuscus and the endangered black-crested macaque.

Today visit the Guarici Archipelago, a chain of islands with white sandy beaches, vibrant coral reefs and lovely local villages. Spend a full day here snorkeling, swimming and paddleboarding, and pay a visit to one of the villages to meet the local people.

The islands are part of a government-controlled conservation area, designed to protect the reefs and the many beautiful marine species that live there.

After breakfast, go ashore on Tidore island, where you will visit a local blacksmith village and an old 16th century Spanish fort.

In the afternoon, head across the strait to Halmahera to visit the village of Dodinga: the very place where AR Wallace was living when he discovered the mechanism which drives evolutionary change – natural selection. His Letter to Charles Darwin was the catalyst that prompted Darwin to publish his book Origin of Species in 1859, which explained the theory in greater detail.

Today marks the end of the adventure, but first head out for a tour of the city, which has retained its commercial and political importance as the administrative and trading center of North Maluku. Visit a couple of old Portuguese and Dutch forts and pay a visit to the Sultan’s Palace with its rich collection of heirlooms. In the early afternoon, be transferred to the airport for your onward flights.

After breakfast, explore the (hopefully) belching Komba volcano with the ship’s dinghies, and go for a snorkel on the surrounding reefs. Late morning, head south and cruise towards the mainland and the beautiful Lewaling Bay. Later this afternoon, snorkel and watch the sunset over Ile Apé, another active volcano. After dinner, make the overnight crossing to Alor.

After breakfast, head to shore and board some local boats to visit with Mawar, a friendly but wild dugong who lives in the seagrass beds of the nearby bay. Also meet Pak One, who ensures that Mawar is well protected.

In the afternoon, pay a visit to Umapura, a village famed for its weaving and dyeing industry, where you can see how the local women create their intricate ikat cloth. There is every chance to purchase some as a memento. Later, go for a great snorkel on a nearby reef, before cruising to your next destination to spend the night at anchor.

Today, visit the very traditional village of Takpala up in the hills of Alor, where you are welcomed by the chief and can witness a ceremonial war dance in honor of your visit. See their traditional ‘Moko’ war drums and intricately designed ‘Ikat’ fabrics, which have been woven and dyed using age old techniques, and used in local bridal dowries for centuries.

Around midday, weigh anchor and cruise east as you enjoy lunch on board, stopping in the late afternoon at a picturesque tropical island to snorkel and swim on a coral reef. Then head east as you continue your journey into the night.

Wake up in a lovely bay on Wetar Island and go ashore to a local fishing village to meet the locals and see their way of life as they dry their catch on the beach. Spend the day swimming and beaching, snorkeling and exploring, and indulge in a bit of local culture by way of sopi, a strong alcoholic drink made from a local palm tree. Later in the afternoon, weigh anchor and continue the journey east.

This morning go ashore on a small island and be welcomed into a remote village where the locals will share their way of life as farmers and fishermen. After lunch continue cruising, stopping off at another tiny island—this one deserted—to swim, kayak, snorkel over the reef and relax on the sand. This evening the crew will set up for a beach BBQ for all to dance and sing into the night before heading off again for an overnight cruise to the next destination.

Today is another day of cruising and exploring in one of the remotest parts of Indonesia. Visit a very simple village where the people’s houses are made using the products of the sago palm, the staple crop in this part of the world. The villagers will demonstrate how they process the heart of the sago palm into the edible product that sustains them. After lunch, cruise around the island and stop off to explore the beaches and reefs, where you will snorkel along the way.

Today will be a day at sea with a route that will pass four spectacular volcanic sea mounts, explicit examples of Indonesia’s place along the Ring of Fire. One of these islands is uninhabited by people, and is home to tens of thousands of sea birds, (brown and red-footed boobies, and frigate birds), who will likely come out to encircle the boat in great numbers upon her approach. If the tide allows, go ashore and investigate, and surely have a snorkel. In the late afternoon proceed north to the fabled Spice Islands.

By dawn, spot the Banda Archipelago Spice Islands, original home of nutmeg and the scene of much bloodshed between the colonial powers of Europe in the 15th and 16th centuries over control of the spice trade. Go ashore and visit Fort Revenge, built by the Dutch, before snorkeling on the local reef.

Later, head across to the main island group and the main town, and anchor in the beautiful enclosed anchorage under the imposing gaze of a nearly 2,000-foot-high volcano. If arriving before nightfall, go ashore and explore the town.

Today is a day of exploring the history and beauty of the Spice Islands with a visit to the main town of the Spice Islands and its fort overlooking the harbor. Wander through the streets and markets of this bustling town and meet the local people. After lunch on the boat, take a local boat over to the biggest of the islands to walk among the vast nutmeg plantations, visit another Dutch fort, talk with the locals and visit one of the last perkineers, the farmers who still run the larger plantations on the island who will tell about life on the islands.

Later in the afternoon, snorkel on a local reef and have a chance to see the rare and multi-hued Mandarin fish, which only comes out at dusk to mate. Dinner will be had ashore at a local restaurant that offers traditional and delicious local dishes.

This morning offers time for a final stroll around the town or a last snorkel before saying farewell to the Spice islands around lunchtime and heading north. Enjoy lunch on the way, passing another major seabird island, before settling in for a relaxing afternoon on board scouring the horizon for migrating whales.

Wake up just south of the final destination. Spend the last few hours enjoying the majesty of the ocean, and possibly see more whales along the way. As the ship drops anchor in the harbor, say farewell to the crew and tour leaders and be taken to the airport for onward journeys, ending a magical 12 days of exploration and adventure.