East Greenland: Arctic Safari

Drive the short distance to Iceland’s domestic airport to board your flight to Kulusuk, Greenland. From Kulusuk, enjoy a scenic transfer by helicopter to Ammassalik Island, landing in Tasiilaq, the small administrative center of East Greenland. Though it’s just a 10-minute flight, it offers a preview of the magnificent scenery to come, with icebergs drifting below and perhaps even a chance to spot a whale from the air.

Tasiilaq’s charming collection of brightly painted wooden houses hugs King Oscar’s Bay, surrounded by pointed peaks iced with glaciers. The town of 2,000 is a hub for outdoor adventure, from hiking and kayaking in summer to dog sledding and glacier skiing in winter. Most of East Greenland is uninhabited except for a handful of small subsistence hunting communities. Greenland’s east coast is often called “the back side” by those on the west, where most of the population, its capital and institutions are located. East Greenland’s people had no contact with the outside world till the turn of the 20th century, and that isolation has fostered a distinct and resilient culture. Your introduction to Greenland begins here, where Arctic wilderness and traditional lifestyles meet. On arrival, convene at your hotel for a briefing before exploring the area around Tasiilaq on foot, hiking into the Valley of Flowers above the scenic bay that fronts the town. Bring your camera, for the ice-clad gneiss and granite peaks provide a backdrop for waterfalls and small lakes fringed by Arctic wildflowers in season.

Though interior Greenland is covered by a massive ice cap, a few habitable areas exist around the bays and coastal islands, and the region enjoys a surprisingly mild and dry summer climate. Today’s exploration starts with a half-day excursion by enclosed private motorboat in the open waters of the Greenland Sea, providing the first close-up views of icebergs. In addition to large chunks of ice calved from glaciers that feed the region’s fjords, view tabular icebergs—ocean-going slabs of ice, some of which have been drifting for months or even years, driven down the coast by the strong East Greenland Current. Glaciologists believe that some even travel from northern Canada, hundreds of miles away. Once they reach the outer edge of Greenland’s fjords, they collide with ice that has broken off the Greenland ice sheet to form gigantic composites, sometimes mingling with brash ice to create frozen mosaics.

Whales are also found seasonally in these waters, when ice conditions permit, and look for fin, minke and humpback whales, as well as seals. Back on shore, explore the coastline on a scenic walk and visit Tasiilaq’s small history museum to learn about the culture and traditions of the Inuit, at home in this region for centuries. This afternoon, hear firsthand experiences from a local resident, sharing personal perspectives on daily life and year-round subsistence in this remote Arctic wonderland.

Depart via boat or helicopter (depending on ice conditions) for the exclusive wilderness Base Camp, located on the east side of Sermilik Fjord near the tiny hamlet of Tinit , which you’ll visit during your stay. The village is one of the most picturesque outposts in East Greenland, surveying a panorama of Sermilik Fjord littered with huge icebergs, with the ice sheet in view beyond. Behind the town, glacier-clad peaks rise over a mile high, jutting up like sharp black teeth through the ice. Tinit is home to fewer than a hundred hardy people who live a subsistence lifestyle, fishing and hunting amid constantly shifting ice. Keep an eye out for whales, as they are frequently seen in these waters when ice conditions permit. The area is filled with evidence of ancient habitation, including graves and ruins of old Inuit sod house foundations, and it is an evocative place to learn more about Inuit history and lore.

Base Camp Greenland is one the most remote places on Earth. After settling in to private tent cabins, sit down for coffee, tea and lunch in the dining room. Convene for an orientation to these Arctic environs, followed by a gear fitting to prepare for the Arctic explorations ahead. An afternoon exploration is likely to include a paddle among the small bergs and calm waters of the protected bay if weather permits, then gather for dinner and a lecture to get acquainted with the region’s remarkable natural history. Through presentations and personal visits, learn about Greenland’s cultural heritage and aspects of modern life. Traditional Inuit identity remains dominant in East Greenland, so at camp, be prepared to share an authentic encounter with this enduring culture that still exists in close harmony with nature.

The landscape along Greenland’s isolated and rarely visited east coast is dramatic. Great fjords indent the coastline, penetrating far into sheer-sided mountains capped by the world’s second-largest ice sheet—and Sermilik Fjord is the mightiest of them all. Base Camp provides a safe and comfortable outpost from which to explore this vast expanse of wild terrain just below the Arctic Circle. Though profoundly secluded, the wider region is dotted with a few isolated villages where Greenlandic Inuit people practice subsistence lifestyles in this uncompromising Arctic environment. In varied encounters, learn about their culture and how they are retaining their traditions while adapting to contemporary life in the 21st century.

On Zodiac excursions, navigate among a flotilla of icebergs in an array of wild shapes, some as big as buildings. Look for whales and seals, both of which are present depending on the ice. Guided sea kayaking is also an option for an eye-level view on the frigid waters. Spend plenty of time ashore, too, with hikes for varying ability levels. Traverse the mountainsides and wander near glaciers that wind down from the Greenland ice sheet. This huge ice mass—second in size only to Antarctica—stretches more than 1,500 miles from north to south, is nearly 2 miles deep at its thickest point and covers 80 percent of the island. Learn about the crucial role it plays in regulating Earth’s climate and see with your own eyes how rapidly it is being affected by climate change. Amid fields of Arctic cotton grass, look for arctic fox and birdlife, including eiders, loons and possibly peregrine falcons. The long hours of summer daylight allow for extensive exploration.

Each evening, retreat to Base Camp for creative meals prepared by accomplished chefs. After dinner, gather for interpretive presentations by naturalist expedition leaders who share their extensive knowledge of Greenland’s geology, glaciology and human history. And, though the sun gleams in the sky much of the night near the Arctic Circle, a good night’s sleep is in order to refuel for the next day’s adventures. Given that your wilderness cabins have real beds with full bedding, you’re sure to get it, wrapped in the profound silence of your icy surroundings. Guests on later-season departures may even have a chance to glimpse the northern lights, if the aurora is active in the darkening night sky.

While heading back to Kulusuk, weather and ice conditions dictate which transportation mode the group will take, but both offer spectacular views. By helicopter, survey jagged peaks and huge U-shaped valleys gouged by glaciers. By boat, navigate the imposing fjord system, keeping an eye out for whales and seals among the ever-shifting tableau of drifting ice. On arrival in Kulusuk, check in to the hotel that’s surrounded by more of East Greenland’s imposing mountains and is a well known gathering point for adventurers and scientists heading out to the ice sheet. If time permits, take an exploratory walk around Kulusuk before gathering for a private performance of traditional Greenlandic drum and dance. Celebrate an extraordinary adventure of discovery, wild beauty and camaraderie over a farewell dinner on our last night together in Greenland.

Though today is devoted to journeying back to the urban world, it is filled with magnificent Arctic scenery viewed from the air. Meet your plane for the return flight to Reykjavik’s domestic airport where your adventure together ends. From here, a transfer is included to the group hotels. Dinner this evening is on your own.

Today, transfer to Keflavik International Airport for homeward flights.