Iceland’s Wild West

Leaving Reykjavik this morning, drive northwest to reach the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Often called “Iceland in miniature” due to the diversity of natural features found here, this prominent outthrust on Iceland’s west coast holds glaciers, mountains, stratovolcanoes, lava fields, waterfalls, wild beaches and marine wildlife. Spend 3 nights based in the remote coastal hamlet of Budir, giving you ample time to explore the wealth of wild sights.

Ytri Tunga Beach is one of the best places in Iceland to see harbor seals, often hauled out on rocks just offshore. Once extensively hunted for their meat, fat for oil, and waterproof pelts, today they are appreciated by most Icelanders for their place in nature. Next, make a short hike to see Bjarnarfoss, one of Iceland’s most striking waterfalls. At 262 feet high, it falls in a two-tiered plume, plunging off a vertical wall of basalt columns cloaked in bright green vegetation. Tucked into a valley and backdropped by tall mountains, it makes for a photogenic scene, with white spray contrasting against the dark basalt cliff.

This afternoon, walk between two traditional fishing villages, from Arnastapi to Hellnar, stopping for lunch along the way. The trail along the shoreline passes lava cliffs and columnar basalt formations on one side, with mountains and Snaesfellsjokull Glacier on the other. Then, take a gentle horseback ride on the golden sands of Hraunlandarif Beach. This private experience is a special opportunity to get to know the famous Icelandic horse breed—unique to this island nation and fiercely protected: no horses from outside are permitted into Iceland, to keep the strain pure.

Rising nearly 5,000 feet above the sea, the 700,000-year-old stratovolcano of Snaefellsjokull is an imposing sight. Identified by its conical shape, a stratovolcano is formed when layers of lava and ash from successive eruptions build up around the vent, creating steep, sloping sides. Snaefellsjokull is also known as a glacier volcano, totally covered in ice, including its 650-foot-deep summit crater. Its last eruption was in the 3rd century. Get right onto its frozen flanks on a thrilling glacier snowcat tour, first climbing from the coast on a scenic drive over a mountain pass with dramatic views of the ice-cloaked volcano before you. Once you reach the base, transfer to a snowcat vehicle that takes you to the top. On a clear day the views are stupendous, and you may be able to see all the way to the Westfjords. Snaefellsjokull is Iceland’s most famous volcano, and many believe it to be one of the world’s main centers of mystical energy—it holds the title role in Jules Verne’s 1864 novel Journey to the Center of the Earth, who posited that subterranean tubes inside the volcano led deep inside the planet.

Next, head to Svodufoss, one of Iceland’s most photogenic yet less-visited waterfalls. The broad, powerful cascade sits in front of Snaefellsjokull Glacier, and on clear days, you can see it and the ice cap together, making for striking photos. Although it’s just 32 feet high, Svodufoss’s clean drop over a columnar basalt cliff into the Laxa River below is a magnificent sight.

Kirkjufell, or Church Mountain, is the most photographed geographic profile in Iceland, and you get here early in the morning from your nearby location, before most other visitors arrive. Standing alone and visible for great distances, Kirkjufell’s symmetrical sides rise to a rounded cone top. Though it is just 1,519 feet high, its isolation makes it appear taller, since it is the most prominent landmark for miles around. A lake at the base offers a perfect mirror image of the peak on a clear, calm day. The classic image of Kirkjufell includes multi-plumed Kirkjufellsfoss, the series of waterfalls pouring off a basalt cliff in the foreground.

Next, board a traditional Icelandic fishing boat for a private cruise to a puffin colony on Ellidaey Island. Puffins abound here, with some 2,000 mating pairs present during the peak of their migratory season, and you are able to get very close to their nesting cliffs. The charming Atlantic puffin, with its clown-like visage, is Iceland’s most famous bird, and the country is home to more than 60% of the world’s population, with 8-10 million in total. Yet seabirds of all kinds abound here, and you are also likely to see kittiwakes, cormorants, Arctic terns and white-tailed eagles. A family of lighthouse keepers lived on the island from 1922-1950, and their house, barn and the lighthouse remain. As you circumnavigate the island, view the striking basalt columns from many angles, then cruise to a spot where seals are often spotted. On your return journey, keep an eye out for whales and dolphins in Breidafjordur Bay.

Ashore once more, take a walk through the fishing village of Stykkisholmur on the far northern point of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The picturesque town was originally a trading post in the 16th century, but its history goes back farther as one of Iceland’s earliest settlements, mentioned in the Sagas, one of the great early works of Icelandic literature.

Travel today to Husafell, an isolated community on the edge of Iceland’s vast, uninhabited interior. Set in the valley carved by Langjokull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier, Husafell is one of Iceland’s hidden secrets—an ancient Viking settlement that today is a place to encounter fire and ice away from crowds. Nearby are two of Iceland’s many stupendous waterfalls. Hraunfossar, which means “lava waterfalls,” is actually a wide cataract—a collection of countless creeks and cascades streaming over a lava platform. Just above is Barnafoss, a torrent of foaming white turbulence blasting beneath a lava arch. A highlight today is Vidgelmir, Iceland’s largest lava cave. On a private tour deep into its subterranean tunnels and caverns, witness firsthand the powerful geological forces that have sculpted this land. Volcanic eruptions have shaped not only the physical environment but also the culture of Iceland, and you hear myths and stories, along with science, as you explore this otherworldly terrain beneath the Earth’s surface.

This afternoon, arrive at your hotel in Husafell, then meet for another experience that captures the essence of Iceland: a private tour and soak in the Canyon Baths. To reach the baths, hike with a local guide over the black lava landscape, past the two-tiered waterfall of Langifoss. The geothermal pools enjoy a grand view of the surrounding canyon, mountains and glaciers. Constructed from locally sourced, natural materials like flagstone from the canyon floor, the baths are hot-spring fed pools designed to blend into the environment using the age-old methods that created Snorralaug, a heritage-site pool dating back to the 10th century. The bathhouse is made from salvaged timbers from the area, and even the hooks in the changing room are repurposed horseshoes from a nearby family farm. Following this relaxing escape, return to your stylish hotel and anticipate an outstanding dinner featuring local, seasonal Nordic fare.

Today, head deep into Iceland’s vast and wild interior, making your way into the Central Highlands. Your route first takes you through the Kaldidalur Valley via a remote road over Iceland’s second-highest pass, cresting to an elevation of 2,385 feet. Your 4×4 van has no trouble negotiating the rugged gravel roads, which are off-limits to less capable vehicles. The drive is spectacular, with views of multiple glaciers, including Langjokull—the “long glacier”—which covers 360 square miles. You’ll also see the shield volcano of Skjaldbreidur, formed around 9,000 years ago in an eruption that also created the basin of Thingvellir.

En route, stop at Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for an on-the-ground perspective on Iceland’s geological and political origins. Here on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the very epicenter of where the Icelandic landscape is forming, you can actually see fissures where the earth’s crust is separating. Thingvellir is also where Iceland was founded politically, when Norse settlers formed the world’s first parliament in 930 AD. On this site, 30 ruling chiefs met to discuss law and order on the island and to create a government. The Althing, an open-air assembly representing the whole of Iceland, is the oldest surviving parliament in the world, though today it meets in Reykjavik. This afternoon, reach Highland Base at Kerlingjarfjoll, a remote luxury outpost that is your jumping-off point for exploring the mountain wilderness around you. Take an introductory guided walk this afternoon, surveying the rugged peaks that rise in every direction.

From your isolated base deep in the highlands, you have easy access to the rugged terrain around you, and there’s no more intimate way to explore it than on foot. Today is devoted to hiking amid these fantastical peaks, which rise in an array of shapes, forms and colors, the rock palette tinted by rhyolite and obsidian. Green alpine moss and lichen add occasional bright accents among the jagged ridges, volcanic summits, geothermal areas and deep valleys. At times, the stark setting is evocative of a moonscape. After a day of exploration, do as the locals do: retreat to a steaming hot spring for a rejuvenating soak in the mineral-laden waters. Then gather for a farewell dinner, reflecting on the full gamut of adventures you’ve enjoyed over the past week.

After breakfast, return to Keflavik International Airport on a scenic half-day drive (it’s recommended not to book departing flights until the afternoon). If you wish to extend your time in Iceland on your own, the van will take you on to Reykjavik after Keflavik.