In Steinbeck’s Wake: An Epic Voyage Through the Sea of Cortez

Early this morning, anchor off Punta Marcial. You will have a chance to go ashore and search the intertidal zone for critters of all kinds. This is also your chance to learn safe practices while kayaking, paddleboarding, snorkeling and skiffing. Punta Marcial is a historic Steinbeck site. During lunch, the ship will get underway for the nearby Isla Catalina where you may see the largest barrel cactus on the planet, or with luck, see the endemic rattle-less rattle snake. Maybe you are up for a snorkel at Elephant Rock? As the sun sets, the ship gets underway for Santa Rosalia Town.

This morning will be spent searching for blue and fin whales that frequent the navigational corridor between Isla Catalina and Sant Rosalia. This afternoon, visit what was a bustling French mining town from the 1880’s; you will find Santa Rosalia to possess a flavor of that early charm, even today. This town is like no other in all of Mexico…they even have a French bakery. Take the opportunity to view many of the historic structures and take an included walking tour to Gustave Eiffel’s Church of Santa Barbara (Eiffel’s Tower fame), the French Bakery and the Mining Museum…how about Boleo history? You will be in town until late. Your guides will have these and other activities available throughout the day.

This is a very rarely visited area without easy access. Great snorkeling, beach walks and hikes in the interior of the Baja Peninsula are available. Also, to the north is Roca el Rasito which is a great spot for bird life and for experienced snorkelers. Your guides will take you to areas that Steinbeck visited and logged the marine and terrestrial life he found. If conditions allow, you may choose your first longer kayak outing of the cruise.

This bay and the little town are considered the Marine Oasis of Baja California due to the abundant aquatic life. This lovely area is also of the finest boating areas in the Baja area. Perfect for kayaking and small boat excursions and ventures ashore such as hikes to Punta Gringa, visits to the nature museum and even possible swims with whale sharks. This is also a great chance to take guided walks and hikes or be on your own. This area is also known as one of the few places in Baja where the famed, and huge, Leatherback Turtle is spotted. For those who enjoyed reading the “Log from The Sea of Cortes,” you will have the opportunity to visit a nearby Stenbeck site.

This is the most northern extent of your journey and a treat the ship’s owner, Captain Dan, has relished returning to. This tight and protected area is known to local fishermen and yachties as one of the most protected and scenic areas in the Gulf of California. You will have all day to enjoy this yachter’s paradise. All activities are on for today, and perhaps a chance for a campfire before dinner?

Field notes from UnCruise’s research trip tell the story best.

“We went up the main arroyo that splits the island in half. We found numerous pinto chuckwallas, which would slap their tails hard on the ground as they scurried off. The hike was rigorous but enjoyed by all. We found hundreds of sea lions hauled out along the south shore of the island. Pelicans, boobies, terns, cormorants, gulls and osprey were numerous along this rugged coast. After landing on the gravel bar, bones of several marine mammals could be found.”

Early this afternoon, get underway for your second dedicated marine mammal search. Keep an eye out for blue, fin, sperm, orca and pilot whales that frequent this area.

“This area is known as the Canal de Salsipuedes, but due to its extreme depths it is also known to mariners as the Trench. The chart indicates a depth in this area of 4860 feet! It is in this trench that large groups of sperm whales feed on Humboldt squid. We came across several groups of these whales and spent the next several hours viewing the mightiest of the toothed whales. Blows could be seen for miles and a conservative estimate put the number at about 80 animals in an area of about six miles by six miles. A sight I will never forget. Mixed among these leviathans were several small pods of bottle nose dolphins.”

This morning the ship will drop the hook in the waters of Bahia Concepcion, deep in the inlet that opens to the North. Spend the first half of the day playing in this waterborne desert, soaking up the sun and settling into the vibe. You may choose to stay on board and enjoy the scenery, go ashore for varying levels of activities, or simply settle in at your beach camp. For those who have interest, join the guides in exploring one of John Steinbeck’s sites here. Be on the watch for dolphins and turtles that frequent this area. The ship’s crew will pull the anchor after lunch, and the ship will work her way North in this long inlet before rounding the point and heading south. This is an excellent time to be on deck and watch for marine mammals as the ship turns south for Cayo-Amatortajda, “a lagoon on a desert island.”

Arrive at this epic location before Noon. This area seems like an odd landscape given the nature of this desert sea. Behold this shallow but large interior lagoon on Isla San Jose. Perfect for bird watching and perhaps a kayak trip. You will likely find this area to be as appealing to you as it was Steinbeck. Outside the lagoon are long beaches, superb for beachcombing or taking it easy. You will be here until late, so come on deck after dinner and star gaze; with no ambient light nearby, it is amazing.

Spend the entire day at one, or both, of these nearby locations. All activities will be available along with your final Steinbeck site at Punta Lobos. This is an amazing area and part of the Biosphere National Park. Tonight is your official captain’s dinner with a wide selection of images that will be shared with all aboard the ship.

After breakfast, it’s adios La Paz, as you transfer back to San José del Cabo for your flight or hotel stay.